"Well, we knew the glorious weather wouldn't hold forever!
On Saturday a.m. I checked the forecast, and rain, and lots of it, was moving in
by Saturday night so instead of taking a
detour around to see Glenveigh National Park (and another castle!) we decided to
just hotfoot it over to the northern coast, as we did want to see the Giant's
Causeway.
It is about a 2 and a half hour drive from Donegal, and part way
along we cross the border into Northern Ireland, leaving the Republic of
Ireland behind. There was no actual way of knowing this had happened, except
all of a sudden, the street signs were in tiled per hour instead of kilometres,
and prices were in Pounds instead of Euros.
We bypassed the city of Derry,
which might have been interesting, but nevertheless is a city, and 4 lane
roundabouts are not what we enjoy. We travelled the coastal route to the
village of Bushmills, and then tried to access the causeway. Along with a
zillion tour buses and any number of other cars and people. The carpark was
full, and so was the car park for the shuttle bus in Bushmills, a couple miles
away. Screw this! was the general agreement, and we decided to take a tour of
the Bushmills distillery instead.
Nice big parking lot with lots of room. Got
tickets for the 1:30 tour, had a really crappy sandwich in their cafeteria, and
then went on the tour and had a wee whiskey tasting afterwards. Yummy stuff I
must say. Bought a bottle of a 12 year old reserve which is not sold anywhere
but here, to bring home.
Then we went to find our b and b. No one answered the
door! And all the lights were out, but check-in was anytime after 3 and it was 3:30
now, so I was confused. Caught poor Valerie in the shower did we! She heard the
door bell, and came dripping wet in her bare feet! She far surpasses any of the
other hosts we have had so far- so funny, bubbly, outspoken and down to earth!
And what a beautiful b and b she has. Our room is huge, with a lovely big
bathroom and a shower you can actually turn around in! And turns out it's a
good thing we gave up trying to park near the causeway. She is full of all
sorts of useful information and saved us a bunch of money by telling us of
another place to park for less than half the price. On her suggestion we waited
until about 5, then went back, and by this time all the tourbuses, and most of
the people are gone, and there is ample room to park on another road for way
less money.
A short walk and we are heading down the road towards the causeway,
or part of it at least. She says that since Game Of Thrones has been filmed in
this area tourism, while always prevalent, has become unbelievable.
The sun was
starting to go down as we walked among these amazing stone formations, and
although it was very different from anything I have ever seen, I do think the
whole thing has been over hyped. And instead of thinking about the volcanoes
and eruptions which caused these geological formations, I would rather dwell on
the legends of Finn MacCool, the great
giant from Scotland, who threw the rocks over to make a path between the two
lands.
In fact, from this point, you can see the mainland of Scotland in the
distant east, over the water. The weather held for about an hour as we walk
around, and then the wind comes up, the mist moves in, it is almost dark, and
it is time for dinner! Found a great pub very close, and wound up chatting with
some folks from Florida while we ate.
A windy and wet drive back to the very
lovely, comfortable bed at Valeries! This morning was definitely wet, although
it did let up at times. We are the only guests here right now and we wind up
chatting with Valerie for at least an hour after breakfast. She is a wealth of
information about the area, having lived here her whole life.
On the mantel is
a picture of her with Prince Charles and Camilla (and a bunch of other people)
when she attended a gala a couple of years ago. She has attained, and managed to
keep, a 4 star rating for her b and b, and was invited with others who have
done the same to a reception at the manor where Charles and Camilla stay when
they are in Ireland. So she had some good stories to tell about that evening!
The sky was clearing up, so we headed out to see the ruins of Dunluce Castle
(raining again!), and drive along the coast, through several wee villages, to
the harbour at Ballintroy. Very small and picturesque, and turns out to be
another GOT filming sight! But no tour buses- they can't make it down the windy
road.
We followed the coast road around, almost all the way to Cushendall,
through farms, sheep, villages, but by this time the rain was coming down in
sheets, and the fog was thick. This is the area that the Green Glens of Antrim
are in (another song from my past!) and I was hoping to see them, but it was
enough work to just see the nose of the car and the oncoming traffic.
Turned
around and made it back to Bushmills, where a late lunch was a delicious wee
cheese plate with a few crackers, just to tide us over until suppertime. On
Sundays a very popular meal is the Sunday Roast, but the pubs and restaurants
have them just until 2 or 3 o'clock, and seems way too early to eat dinner for
us!
I have noticed a couple of differences between here and southern Ireland.
There is no Irish anymore on the signs, only English. This part of Ireland is
an extension of England, and it is obvious. We have seen pictures of the Queen
here, not in the south, and the accent has changed too. It has taken on a
decidedly Scottish tone, as well as different words, like "Aye" for
yes creeping in.
This is a very interesting and complex country, for sure. It's
too bad the weather was so poor today, but we can perhaps try again tomorrow on
our way to Belfast. An email from the b and b I had reserved in Belfast arrived
Friday informing us they had had to cancel our reservation due to circumstances
beyond their control, so I had to scramble and find a replacement quickly. Had
to settle for a hotel, but that's ok- they have free parking! And that is a
must!
Time to brave the rain again and find dinner. Hope there is some thing
that doesn't have "chips". So totally sick of those!"
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