I am a day or 2 behind so going to squash a few things
together.
Hugh didn't want to drive on the motorway, because it is boring and
fast and you can't see anything, so we head, through the backroads to Cashel,
to see the Rock of Cashel. For more than a thousand years it was a symbol of
power and the seat of Kings and churchmen who ruled this region. It is built up
high above the town, on a limestone outcropping so that they could see the bad
guys coming!
A sandstone chapel dating from 1127 still looks new, due to some
restoration work done a few years ago. The 11th or 12th century round tower
still stands, along with the ruins of the 13th century Cathedral. The original
St. Patrick's cross is carefully protected in the croft of the Vicars Choral.
The walls most of the way around are still intact and the sweeping view over
the countryside is magnificent.
Green fields as far as the eye can see, dotted
with sheep, cattle, and stone houses. So nice to be in the country and away
from the city.
We were going to visit the castle of Cahir, but when we got
there the parking lot and town was a
zoo, so on we went. Carried on down the back roads and found ourselves climbing
some mountains. Although they weren't any where near as high as our mountains
it was interesting to see the changes the elevation made to the flora. First,
the green fields gave way to rocky ground with short, sparse bracken and ferns
instead of trees. As we went higher it started to "Irish mist", not
really rain, but the windscreen wipers were needed. There were sheep grazing
everywhere, in fact in a couple of places, on the road. One has to be careful
driving here- never know what you will come across when you go around a corner.
There were high hedges of Rhododendrons, just growing wild alongside the road.
Must have been 15 feet tall in some places. I can't imaging what that would
look like in the spring when they were blooming. Would be worth another trip
back just to see! There were several places to stop and take pictures of the
valley far below. As we descended again the green fields were back with even
more sheep, this time safely behind fencing. Drove past the Lismore Castle, but
were running short of time to explore it's gardens, so headed into Cork, our
spot for the night. It was a zoo of traffic. Most unpleasant!
But we found our
air b and b, an apartment in a Victorian townhouse. Two flights of very steep,
narrow circular stairs later suitcases were in! The landlady was an interesting
mix of flake and friendly, dripping in jewelry, some tattoos, and layers of odd
clothing. The apartment was kind of like that too- an eclectic mix of bits and
bobs of junk from second hand stores as decoration, useless pieces of
furniture, and mismatched bits of rugs on the floor. A big clawfoot tub in the
bathroom made it almost impossible to move in said room. Luckily there was a
shower! Pauline warned us that we might have a visit from one of her cats, and
since there wasn't a proper lock on the door, and it didn't entirely close, she
was right.
Along about midnight Hugh wakes me up growling "There's a cat
in the bed". Sho nuff! A little black and white cat stayed the night,
purring, until about 6 am when it buggered off. No breakfast, no coffee (I
think I like proper bed and breakfasts instead of Air b and b!) and we drove
out of the city (again, or still, not sure which, a zoo of traffic) to head out
to Blarney Castle.
Found the village, and the hotel, where there was food, and
a form of coffee that needed milk and sugar to make it somewhat palatable.
Wandered around the castle for a couple of hours looking at the lovely grounds
and gardens. We did not climb up to kiss the Blarney Stone. All of you who know
us know we can already tell a long tale, and don't need any more gift of the
gab. Plus there were people coughing, sneezing etc in that lineup. Hugh already
has a sore throat, and I can hear in his voice the beginnings of a cold. Don't
need more bugs.
After we were done at the castle, headed south to Kinsale,
which is on the water. Had to go through that crappy traffic again- it seems
Cork doesn't have a ring road like everyone else. Pretty little town with a
marina and harbour and lots of small shops. Back to Cork, in rush hour traffic,
to find dinner and a badly needed whiskey! We both agreed that we did not like
Cork much. It is grubbier than anywhere we have been yet, and doesn't have much
to recommend it. I think we could easily have left it out.
A couple of
fantastic whiskey bars though, and while Hugh talked sawmills with a couple of
elderly gents, one of whom had been to Crown Zellerbach mills in the North
Western States and Canada (of course Hugh had been there too) I talked with the
bartender, who reminded me of an Irish accented version of Jamie from
"Outlander" if any of you have seen that. Yum. Our little cat joined
us again that night, which was kind of nice, as I must admit I am missing my
dog.
Because of parking restrictions, we were out of there at 0830, to wend our
way out of the city in the (again) sluggish traffic. But then we were away, and
out to the countryside again, and down near the coast too. Wound our way
through Clonakilty where we found breakfast (and good coffee!) It was super
busy, so we headed on along the coast on some goat paths they call roads. Down
to a "Blue Flag Beach" where the wind was howling, and the
temperature was hovering around 11 degrees, and there was a nut out in the
water, all by himself, surfing. These Irish are sturdy folk!
Stopped at the
Drombeg Stone Circle, dating from roughly
1100-800 BC. The pathway through the field leading to it was hedged in, if you
can believe it, fuchsias! they were up to 6 feet tall, and intermingled
with grass, blackberries, bracken, but
the fuchsias were blooming, and it was amazing!
Carried on through the villages
of Glandore (pretty), Skibbereen (forgettable) Bantry, (gorgeous) and
Glengariffe to Kenmare, where we met up with The Ring of Kerry Road. It took an
hour and a half to go the next 40 km to Killarney, a very lovely town.
The road
is very windy, narrow, through some mountains, and is a huge tourist draw,
which is why it took so long. But it is
drop dead gorgeous. We reached our B and B, right on the shores of the river,
and it was so lovely.
And the welcoming committee was comprised of a lovely
Golden Retriever named Harvey, who immediately stole my heart. He has a great
selection of toys on the lawn that he will bring you to throw for him, but if
you do you are his forever! We walked the 2 km into the town to find dinner,
and it was raining and windy when we were done, so a cab back seemed smart!
Hugh is sick anyway- I can hear it in his voice. A whiskey and bed is my
prescription!
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