Wednesday, September 11, 2019

Intrepid Friends' Ireland Trip Part 4




I am a day or 2 behind so going to squash a few things together.

Hugh didn't want to drive on the motorway, because it is boring and fast and you can't see anything, so we head, through the backroads to Cashel, to see the Rock of Cashel. For more than a thousand years it was a symbol of power and the seat of Kings and churchmen who ruled this region. It is built up high above the town, on a limestone outcropping so that they could see the bad guys coming!

A sandstone chapel dating from 1127 still looks new, due to some restoration work done a few years ago. The 11th or 12th century round tower still stands, along with the ruins of the 13th century Cathedral. The original St. Patrick's cross is carefully protected in the croft of the Vicars Choral. The walls most of the way around are still intact and the sweeping view over the countryside is magnificent.

Green fields as far as the eye can see, dotted with sheep, cattle, and stone houses. So nice to be in the country and away from the city.


We were going to visit the castle of Cahir, but when we got there the parking lot  and town was a zoo, so on we went. Carried on down the back roads and found ourselves climbing some mountains. Although they weren't any where near as high as our mountains it was interesting to see the changes the elevation made to the flora. First, the green fields gave way to rocky ground with short, sparse bracken and ferns instead of trees. As we went higher it started to "Irish mist", not really rain, but the windscreen wipers were needed. There were sheep grazing everywhere, in fact in a couple of places, on the road. One has to be careful driving here- never know what you will come across when you go around a corner.

There were high hedges of Rhododendrons, just growing wild alongside the road. Must have been 15 feet tall in some places. I can't imaging what that would look like in the spring when they were blooming. Would be worth another trip back just to see! There were several places to stop and take pictures of the valley far below. As we descended again the green fields were back with even more sheep, this time safely behind fencing. Drove past the Lismore Castle, but were running short of time to explore it's gardens, so headed into Cork, our spot for the night. It was a zoo of traffic. Most unpleasant!

But we found our air b and b, an apartment in a Victorian townhouse. Two flights of very steep, narrow circular stairs later suitcases were in! The landlady was an interesting mix of flake and friendly, dripping in jewelry, some tattoos, and layers of odd clothing. The apartment was kind of like that too- an eclectic mix of bits and bobs of junk from second hand stores as decoration, useless pieces of furniture, and mismatched bits of rugs on the floor. A big clawfoot tub in the bathroom made it almost impossible to move in said room. Luckily there was a shower! Pauline warned us that we might have a visit from one of her cats, and since there wasn't a proper lock on the door, and it didn't entirely close, she was right.

Along about midnight Hugh wakes me up growling "There's a cat in the bed". Sho nuff! A little black and white cat stayed the night, purring, until about 6 am when it buggered off. No breakfast, no coffee (I think I like proper bed and breakfasts instead of Air b and b!) and we drove out of the city (again, or still, not sure which, a zoo of traffic) to head out to Blarney Castle.

Found the village, and the hotel, where there was food, and a form of coffee that needed milk and sugar to make it somewhat palatable. Wandered around the castle for a couple of hours looking at the lovely grounds and gardens. We did not climb up to kiss the Blarney Stone. All of you who know us know we can already tell a long tale, and don't need any more gift of the gab. Plus there were people coughing, sneezing etc in that lineup. Hugh already has a sore throat, and I can hear in his voice the beginnings of a cold. Don't need more bugs.

After we were done at the castle, headed south to Kinsale, which is on the water. Had to go through that crappy traffic again- it seems Cork doesn't have a ring road like everyone else. Pretty little town with a marina and harbour and lots of small shops. Back to Cork, in rush hour traffic, to find dinner and a badly needed whiskey! We both agreed that we did not like Cork much. It is grubbier than anywhere we have been yet, and doesn't have much to recommend it. I think we could easily have left it out.

A couple of fantastic whiskey bars though, and while Hugh talked sawmills with a couple of elderly gents, one of whom had been to Crown Zellerbach mills in the North Western States and Canada (of course Hugh had been there too) I talked with the bartender, who reminded me of an Irish accented version of Jamie from "Outlander" if any of you have seen that. Yum. Our little cat joined us again that night, which was kind of nice, as I must admit I am missing my dog.

Because of parking restrictions, we were out of there at 0830, to wend our way out of the city in the (again) sluggish traffic. But then we were away, and out to the countryside again, and down near the coast too. Wound our way through Clonakilty where we found breakfast (and good coffee!) It was super busy, so we headed on along the coast on some goat paths they call roads. Down to a "Blue Flag Beach" where the wind was howling, and the temperature was hovering around 11 degrees, and there was a nut out in the water, all by himself, surfing. These Irish are sturdy folk!



Stopped at the Drombeg Stone Circle,  dating from roughly 1100-800 BC. The pathway through the field leading to it was hedged in, if you can believe it, fuchsias! they were up to 6 feet tall, and intermingled with  grass, blackberries, bracken, but the fuchsias were blooming, and it was amazing!




Carried on through the villages of Glandore (pretty), Skibbereen (forgettable) Bantry, (gorgeous) and Glengariffe to Kenmare, where we met up with The Ring of Kerry Road. It took an hour and a half to go the next 40 km to Killarney, a very lovely town.

The road is very windy, narrow, through some mountains, and is a huge tourist draw, which is  why it took so long. But it is drop dead gorgeous. We reached our B and B, right on the shores of the river, and it was so lovely.

And the welcoming committee was comprised of a lovely Golden Retriever named Harvey, who immediately stole my heart. He has a great selection of toys on the lawn that he will bring you to throw for him, but if you do you are his forever! We walked the 2 km into the town to find dinner, and it was raining and windy when we were done, so a cab back seemed smart! Hugh is sick anyway- I can hear it in his voice. A whiskey and bed is my prescription!


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